Photo by Mimi Bigelow Steadmanįinally, we head back into Townsend Gut and tie up for lunch on the dock at Robinson’s Wharf. Lobster served at Robinson’s Wharf comes straight off the boats that jockey for space at the dock. Edged by shingled cottages and a defunct lobster pound, it seems untouched by time. It’s a straight shot from there up Southport’s eastern edge to picturesque Pig Cove, a hideaway harbor tucked between Southport and Capitol Island. We look out beyond Cape Island to Cuckolds Light, standing strong on its bold outcropping, and then squeeze through that skinny passage on the harbor’s eastern side. It’s said that this shore was one of her favorite places, and a simple plaque amid a jumble of sea-washed boulders marks the spot where her ashes were scattered. Rachel Carson often visited the inn as well. It would be a quick winged-monkey flight across the harbor from her private isle to the expansive grounds of Newagen Seaside Inn, a classic summer resort where Hamilton enjoyed going for breakfast.
The Wizard of Oz’s Wicked Witch of the West-summered for years. To starboard lies Cape Island and the antique red farmhouse where actress Margaret Hamilton-a.k.a. Once we reach Cape Harbor and Cape Newagen, we dawdle in the stunning waterscape. Once owned by actress Margaret Hamilton, Cape Island lies just across the harbor from Newagen Seaside Inn. The marine biologist, environmental champion, warrior against DDT, and author of The Sea Around Us and Silent Spring built a simple cottage on a bluff overlooking Sheepscot Bay in 1953, and spent every summer here until her untimely death in 1964. It was on this rugged chunk of coast that Rachel Carson found inspiration and serenity. From there, it’s a scenic southerly run down the western side of the island, with views of Seguin Light rising on the starboard horizon and a portside shoreline graced by impressive summer homes.ĭogfish Head thrusts northward before we come to the square white tower of Hendricks Head Light and its red-roofed keeper’s house. Sometimes we detour into Ebenecook Harbor to admire the handsome boats moored near Hodgdon Yacht Services’ docks. Heading into the mouth of the Sheepscot River, we bear to port and seaward. We usually do a counterclockwise loop, beginning with a westward pass through Townsend Gut and the 82-year-old swing bridge that hitches the island to Boothbay Harbor. The main road that rings the island only allows intermittent water views and hints of what lies down wooded driveways, making the sea the best vantage from which to appreciate Southport’s considerable beauty. Successfully slipping through is just one of the highlights of circumnavigating this five-by-two-mile, arrowhead-shaped island.Īshore, Boothbay Harbor’s low-profile neighbor thrives on a mix of families who have been here for generations, newer arrivals who’ve put down year-round roots, and summer residents who appreciate the laid-back feeling of the close-knit community-one in which everyone looks out for each other, according to Scott Larson, longtime co-owner of Newagen Seaside Inn.
Located at the pointy tip of Southport Island, it’s the kind of place where you throttle back, stand up, peer over the side, and exhale when you reach the other end. Well, thankfully not stuck, but it could easily happen when threading the tight and shallow outlet at the eastern edge of Cape Harbor, beside Cape Newagen. ROCKS TO THE LEFT of us, ledges to the right-here we are, stuck in the middle.
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